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How to read a cosmetic ingredient list

INCI lists are ordered, not alphabetical. That one fact tells you most of what you need.

The B12 Editors · 30 Jun 2026 · 6 min read

Every cosmetic sold legitimately carries an INCI list — International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It looks impenetrable. It is not.

The order is the information

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, down to 1%. Below 1%, they can be listed in any order.

This means: if the "hero" ingredient a product is named after appears after the preservative, there is very little of it in there.

Where the 1% line usually falls

A practical rule: preservatives such as phenoxyethanol are used at around 1%. Xanthan gum and carbomer sit around 0.2–0.5%. Once you see one of those, everything after it is present in small amounts.

So in this list —

Aqua, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Parfum

— the niacinamide is doing real work and the centella is close to decorative.

What "fragrance-free" and "unscented" mean

They are not the same. Fragrance-free means no fragrance was added. Unscented can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover a raw-material smell. If you react to fragrance, look for the first term and check the list for *Parfum*.

Allergen declarations

The named items at the end of a fragrance list — limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, eugenol — are declared because they are known contact allergens. Their presence is not a warning about product quality; it is a legal disclosure so people who react to them can avoid them.

What an ingredient list cannot tell you

It does not tell you the concentration of anything below 1%, the pH, the formulation quality, or whether the active is in a form your skin can use. Two products with near-identical lists can perform very differently. The list narrows the field; it does not decide.

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